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When Nike launched its aboriginal plus-size band of activewear in March, a assertive aphotic base of the amusing media apple decried it as a tacit endorsement of obesity. “Thought Nike was an contest accouterment company. Should they not be announcement a advantageous lifestyle?” one such base wrote on Facebook at the time. “These chastening don’t attending like they do annihilation advantageous or athletic.”

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No amount that, to absolutely get in shape, an adipose woman ability charge a sports bra and a brace of leggings. The bulletin was clear: Fat bodies should abrasion burlap sacks until such a time as they are not fat, at which point they are chargeless to resume affairs cher combinations of cobweb and spandex with the blow of humanity.

Plus-size women accept been accepting a watered-down adaptation of this bulletin for years. Research shows that the boilerplate American changeable is amid sizes 16 and 18, which is appropriate aloft area “plus-size” begins. As Quartz’s Marc Bain put it, that makes “the boilerplate American woman allotment of a appropriate class in the eyes of abounding retailers.”

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That appropriate class charcoal berserk underserved. Most designers top out about admeasurement 12, as do abounding boilerplate brands. A 2016 Bloomberg analysis found that aloof 8.5% of dresses on Nordstrom.com were accessible in continued sizes; for J.C. Penney it was 16%. A abstracted baby abstraction begin that 37% of plus-size women abrasion men’s accouterment to exercise, apparently for abridgement of bigger options.

But there is conceivably no bigger archetype of this abstract than extra and actor Leslie Jones, who tweeted aftermost June that no designers would fit her for a dress to abrasion to the premiere of Ghostbusters. Designer Christian Siriano, who has fabricated a addiction of advocating for assortment of admeasurement in fashion, ultimately stepped in.

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Actress Leslie Jones Gets The Aftermost Laugh At ‘Ghostbusters’ Premiere Afterwards Dress Debacle https://t.co/Z7xCF8KDWK pic.twitter.com/IKZeeBE8h2

— The Source Magazine (@TheSource) July 11, 2016

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Meanwhile, Amazon has spent the accomplished few years authoritative apparent its ambition to get into clothing. The aggregation has alien bags of appearance products, launched a half-dozen clandestine labels, and is alike advancing for underwear. Acceptable retailers are already activity the impact: Aftermost year, Amazon claimed aloof $3.4 billion of the $200 billion US accoutrement market, according to abstracts from One Click Retail; but while all-embracing accoutrement sales grew 3% over 2015, Amazon’s were up 25%.

The plus-size bazaar sits calmly in this gap amid Amazon’s ambition of aition accouterment sales, and acceptable retail’s abnegation to serve bigger bodies. And it’s a huge market: According to NPD Group, sales of women’s plus-size accouterment (defined as sizes 12 ) hit $21.4 billion aftermost year, up 6% over 2015. Plus-size women are additionally accretion their spending on clothes faster than straight-size shoppers, and studies consistently show they would be accommodating to absorb alike added if accustomed added options. There is additionally a able-bodied association of plus-size fashionistas and bloggers able of adorning brands through chat of mouth.

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There are abounding accessible affidavit Amazon could accomplish after-effects with a articulation of awful affianced American shoppers: It already owns about 44% of the US e-commerce market, and about bisected of US households already have Amazon Prime. Acceptable retailers accept additionally appropriate that the acumen of designing clothes in continued sizes are badly complicated (🙄)—if that is the case, well, Amazon happens to specialize in logistics.

But the e-commerce behemothic has additionally fabricated some specific moves that could accord it a leg up in the plus-size world:

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Amazon does assume to accept bent the aroma of its plus-size opportunity. In March—less than a anniversary afterwards the Nike activewear fracas—the company posted a job advertisement for a cast administrator of plus-size fashion. Consulting aggregation Bain & Co. additionally told Bloomberg that Amazon grew its allotment of the plus-size women’s bazaar about 50% in the accomplished three years.

There is an altercation to be fabricated that companies shouldn’t accept to serve every shopper. (I’m reminded of Mean Girls‘ 135, a fabulous abundance that alone agitated clothes in those sizes.) But for retailers that await on scale, or accept claimed to abutment admeasurement diversity, it makes beneath and beneath business faculty to accumulate blank this market. Walmart knows this—that’s acceptable why it bought plus-size best ModCloth—and it seems more acceptable that Amazon knows it too.

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