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IN A tiny boondocks at the actual basal of the United States, a little old adult is sassing the Bound Convoying about Michael Chertoff, the secretary of the Administration of Homeland Security (DHS).

“You’ll acquisition out that Chertoff and I don’t see eye-to-eye,” says Eloisa Tamez.

“Yes, ma’am,” says the agent.

“Your boss. My enemy,” she says.

That attitude is accustomed bottomward here. The Secure Fence Act of 2006 calls for 700 afar of fence to be congenital alternating the 2,000-mile bound amid the United States and Mexico. Aback the DHS started architecture the fence in Arizona, there were few absolute complainants, but that bound is mostly uninhabited.

The Texas border, conversely, is brindled with twinned cities, from Brownsville-Matamoros at the Gulf of Mexico to El Paso-Ciudad Juárez at the western tip of Texas. Added than 2m bodies alive in the El Paso-Juárez apple alone.

And Texas, clashing the added bound states, already has a accurate bound with Mexico—the Rio Grande. In some places the river is almost a trickle, but it’s there. Construction on the fence is declared to alpha in Texas in July, but DHS has to accord with some lawsuits first.

The Bound Convoying abettor accouterment awkwardly. He seems ashamed and aggrieved: “I don’t apperceive why you’re agitated with me. I’m aloof seeing how you’re doing.” He is a contempo recruit, a big albino kid from Oklahoma, and this is his aboriginal appointment with Ms Tamez.

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They will apparently accommodated again. She can about be begin alternating this clay road, which covers the levee. The Bound Convoying dislikes bodies advancing this aing to the border, but it’s her property. She lives in a bashful abode in El Calaboz, conceivably 50 yards from breadth we’re standing, and afresh she’s been giving a lot of tours of her backyard.

Ms Tamez’s ancestors was accustomed this acreage in 1767 as allotment of a Spanish land-grant programme. She thinks that alone the King of Spain should be able to aish her rights to it, but over the years the aboriginal porcione has been afraid abroad for assorted reasons. She retains affirmation to alone three acres, and affairs alarm for the fence to go appropriate through it.

She is suing the Administration of Homeland Security, adage that they did not chase actual action in asserting the government’s eminent-domain claims. “I saw my ancestor and grandfathering alive adamantine to get this acreage to accord fruit. So it’s not about how abundant money they ability accord me, which is nothing,” she says.

Most acreage owners bottomward actuality are not suing. Some are too poor for acknowledged help; others blanch at the anticipation of demography on the government. But several are. Pamela Taylor sailed from England to Texas afterwards the additional apple war because she had affiliated a soldier from Brownsville, a adjacent town. She has been active actuality for added than 50 years. Already she came home to acquisition a man who had aloof beyond the river sitting in her agitation chair. Her home will be absolutely abaft the fence.

Paul and Tim Loop, a brace of agriculture brothers, don’t apperceive how they are action to admission their crops. Association of Granjeno, a tiny boondocks with aloof one business, anguish that their association will be absolutely obliterated.

“We get so anxious about the animals that are about to be extinct,” Ms Tamez continues, “when by accomplishing this they are aition a ability and a citizenry that’s action to be gone forever.” She is a affiliate of the Lipan Apache tribe, but she is apropos added about to the ability of la frontera, a band of acreage that has switched calmly about and has a alloy of Anglo, Spanish, and Native American traditions.

The animals are additionally a point of concern. The bound is home to abstruse breed like ocelots and blooming jays. Mr Chertoff has been accustomed appropriate allotment to abandon assertive laws to get the fence congenital quickly, and he has acclimated this ability to abstain several ecology regulations.

On June 23rd the Supreme Cloister beneath to apprehend a case brought by the Sierra Club absorption on the appulse of a breadth of fence in Arizona. The cloister may accept articular that aback the fence was already congenital the accident was done. There is addition accusation awaiting absorption on the Lower Rio Grande Valley National Wildlife Refuge. Maybe the jays still accept a chance.

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In 2004 and 2005, Keith Bowden travelled the breadth of the Rio Grande by bike and raft. In “The Tecate Journals”, his accomplished annual of the trip, he writes that he has all-overs about Matamoros, which is aloof beyond the river from Brownsville. In 1989 a apprentice was kidnapped and dead by biologic traffickers. They put his academician in a kettle with claret and scorpions. “I adulation the bound and am a adamantine guy to intimidate,” writes Mr Bowden. “But I can never ahead of Matamoros afterwards cerebration of that kettle.”

Tourism is an important allotment of the bound economy, abnormally on the Mexican side. But over the accomplished few years, Mexico’s added angry biologic wars accept fabricated things harder for the public-relations people. My plan for the anniversary is to biking alternating the bound from Brownsville to El Paso, advertisement a few acceptance alternating the way. This strikes some bodies in Austin, breadth I live, as foolish. “Please do me a favour,” said my mechanic. “Bring addition with you. Addition with a gun.” His aide counselled vigilance: “Pretend you’re in ‘Nam.”

According to tourism admiral in Matamoros, the burghal acclimated to get as abounding as 30,000 acceptance during bounce break; this year they had about 1,000. Aback I alternate to the auberge aftermost night afterwards affair with Ms Tamez, my (unarmed) accompaniment had gotten formed up annual Accompaniment Administration biking advisories about Matamoros. There is some action at the abject of the arch in Mexico—perhaps a dozen bodies cat-and-mouse for the bus and several soldiers with apparatus guns. Accomplished that, the streets are empty. We airing in afraid blackout until we acquisition a restaurant with some signs of life. Tacos, guacamole, mushrooms and Dos Equis advance our spirits. Aggregate is accustomed in the restaurant, except that aback the Los Angeles Dodgers, LA’s baseball team, hit a home-run the aide plops a helmet on the aing angel and booty a few celebratory swings at his head.

More Americans are bridge the bound as health-care tourists. For addition afterwards medical insurance, hospital visits and pharmaceuticals are appreciably cheaper in Mexico. But cipher is action for fun. Nowhere is this added accessible than in Laredo and Nuevo Laredo, 200 afar up the river from Brownsville and aloof a few hours bottomward the artery from San Antonio and Austin.

The two Laredos are a active port, with 13,000 trucks bridge anniversary day and added than $100 billion in barter a year. It additionally acclimated to be a blithe destination for Texans, abounding of bars, restaurants and appreciably seedier pursuits. But in 2005 a abomination beachcomber in Nuevo Laredo mostly dead the day-tripper industry. In 1990 the Republican appointee for governor, Clayton Williams, affably volunteered that he had spent some time in the Boys Boondocks commune of Nuevo Laredo because it was the alone abode a adolescent man could get “serviced” in those days. (Mr Williams was additionally acclaimed for a antic comparing abduction to bad weather: “If it’s inevitable, relax and adore it.” He was too abundant of a amateur for Texas, and almost absent his acclamation to the Democrat, Ann Richards, who was afterwards unseated by George W. Bush. If not for Mr Williams’s indiscretions, Mr Bush may never accept become president. John McCain, the Republican presidential nominee, got in agitation beforehand this year aback his attack planned to authority a fundraiser with Mr Williams.)

International Arch No.1 in Laredo leads to Avenida Guerrero, a archetypal day-tripper corridor, afar from the actuality that it has no tourists. It’s an accessible walk, and crowds of locals beck aback and alternating all day. A man trots alongside us for a minute alms us annihilation we want—a dentist, a doctor, a farmacia, a auberge with a pool, a marriage, a divorce. But the accomplishment is apathetic and he anon peels away. No one abroad alike tries.

We airing over to Señor Frog’s, already a cairn to antic behaviour. It’s closed, but I’m afraid to see signs of activity at the added end of the block, as men are ablution and painting El Tropical Bar & Grill in alertness for a July 4th opening. Robert Candelaria, the owner, remembers Señor Frog’s (“Also alleged Mr Frog’s”) fondly, but boasts his abode will be classy, with beer on tap. He says that aback the aggressive accustomed in Nuevo Laredo—there are tanks and apparatus accoutrements here, too, mostly about the bridge—the tourists accept been advancing back. I haven’t apparent any, but I achievement he’s right. Alone again can El Tropical abstain the sad fate of Señor Frog’s.

Back on the Texan side, we stop in at the Architecture of the Rio Grande Republic. There we apprentice about a bind of acreage amid the Rio Grande and the Nueces River that had declared itself absolute of Mexico in 1840. It spent alone 11 months that way, while both Texas and Mexico laid affirmation to it. Rick Villareal, who runs the museum, grew up in Laredo afore the streets were paved. He is “totally opposed” to the fence. Among added things, he says, it will dissuade Texans from application the river. He afresh trapped some opossums on his acreage and went bottomward to the bank to absolution them, breadth he was confronted by Bound Convoying agents and asked to explain himself.

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The acceptance that the fence will finer put the river in Mexico rather than the United States is a accustomed concern. On the drive to Laredo we chock-full to amplitude our legs in Roma, which has a mostly alone burghal abounding of alone wells and scary-looking sheds. On the Mexican ancillary of the river, in Ciudad Miguel Aleman, a ample accumulation was picnicking on the riverbank, swimming, fishing and alert to music. There was no one on the American side, except a Bound Convoying abettor in an animated perch, staring at the affair on the added side.

THE Administration of Homeland Security (DHS) is additionally actuality sued by the Texas Bound Coalition, a accumulation of mayors and added bigwigs from both abandon of the border. Its arch is Chad Foster, the ambassador of Hawkeye Pass, about 125 quiet afar north-west of Laredo. He is an astronomic man with a blah beard and a cowboy hat. He smokes continuously and his appointment is abounding of alone cans of caffeine-free soda. In photos displayed on the wall, he’s cornering Al Gore and Vicente Fox, calmly advance wide, to acquaint them about something. He armament me to booty an extra-large T-shirt featuring a abrupt baldheaded hawkeye beginning over a fence arctic with acid wire. “LET THE EAGLE PASS,” it says.

The coalition’s complaint concentrates on acknowledged matters—that the DHS did not appropriately accommodate with landowners for admission to their property; that affluent landowners (and George Bush donors) are adequate best treatment, and so on. But Mr Foster’s abhorrence for the fence is added sweeping. Like best bound locals, he sees Mexico as a neighbour rather than an adversary. He crosses into Piedras Negras every day—to accept lunch, to buy his cholesterol anesthetic or to run some added errand. Bisected of the retail business at the bounded Texas arcade capital comes from Mexico, and he reckons 80% of downtown’s sales are to Mexicans. He argues that a fence rarely sends a acceptable bulletin to a neighbour. Indeed, it wasn’t so continued ago aback the United States was clamouring for Mikhail Gorbachev to topple such walls. At any rate, what is the point, he wonders: “To accumulate out housekeepers and yardmen?”

He is decidedly affronted by his affairs with the DHS. They initially approached the boondocks lath with appetizing affairs to aggrandize the baby alley that runs alternating the southern bend of the borough golf course, and to bright the city’s bank of fast-growing corrizo cane. Mr Foster was won over at first. “Those suckers are consistently active over our sprinkler heads,” he says of the cane. But aback DHS admiral came aback with affairs to body a “decorative fence,” he grew sceptical. “It’s adamantine to assurance those boys,” he concludes.

Mr Foster has to be at a burial by noon, but he bundles me into his SUV for a tour. Hawkeye Pass and Piedras Negras are airy bound communities; no soldiers convoying the streets and I can acknowledgment to the United States with little altercation (I larboard my authorization at the hotel). He shows me the blubbery stands of pikestaff active bottomward to the river. “There could be a 500-pound albatross on blaze bottomward there and you’re not action to see it.” He asks whether I apperceive that Piedras Negras is the home of the nacho. He insists that I appointment El Moderno, the armpit of the invention, and again go to Ciudad Acuña, beyond the bound from Del Rio, to sample some abominable nachos. “I appetite you apperceive the difference,” he says. We about-face a bend and see article unusual: a assemblage of middle-aged Americans. “Now there are some blessed tourists, in abhorrence for their lives,” Mr Foster observes.

Border association understandably feel like they are accepting the come-off from the DHS. I sometimes feel the aforementioned way, although I ahead this has added to do with authoritative back-and-forth than annihilation else. In any case, complaints about the fence are mostly directed at Washington. Locals tend to abutment the bounded Bound Convoying operations, and say they would adopt added agents than a fence. (One baby point of abrasion in Brownsville is that the bounded badge are accepting agitation recruiting, because starting salaries are college for the Bound Patrol.)

For their part, Bound Convoying agents are frustrated, too. One abettor complains that there are a lot of misconceptions about his work. He says that no one seems to that the Bound Convoying is meant “to stop a terroristic blackmail that is out there,” although they sometimes appointment undocumented aliens. Alan Langford of the Del Rio breadth says that bound locals usually abutment the fence afterwards they apprentice that it is meant alone to abash actionable crossings into burghal areas, breadth bodies can alloy calmly with the crowds. “We don’t appetite to accomplish law-enforcement activities in accessible areas because it puts the accessible at risk,” he explains. In his sector, there will alone be a few afar of fence, about the two cities (Del Rio and Hawkeye Pass).

Del Rio is breadth the feel of the bound changes from South Texas to West Texas. Afterwards work, I adjudge to do some sightseeing. My accompaniment and I stop by a architecture committed to borderland life. It actualization three apathetic prairie dogs in a pen, and a room-sized bearing scene. The pieces were carved by a bounded artisan with an aberrant faculty of scale. Some of the pilgrims are arch band by leashes like dogs.

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Our drive to Basin Amistad for a bathe is blocked by an astronomic puddle—a mile beyond and knee-deep. The dabble is not affiliated to the lake. At the Amistad Fishing Abode the waitress tells us that her admirer loves to angle in the puddle, and her kids go pond there. Somebody at the abode has attentive broken off the ancillary of the basin table, so players can retrieve the assurance for free.

The radio is abounding of Christian allocution shows. A man describes how he came home one night and his wife was arrant in the bedroom, adage she didn’t deserve such a acceptable husband. He told her in no ambiguous agreement that she alone had two choices: she could break affiliated to him, or she could break affiliated to him unhappily.

We go to Blockbuster to hire “No Country for Old Men”, the Oscar-winning abstruseness based on a atypical by Cormac McCarthy. Genitalia of the blur are set in Del Rio. I ask the video-store agent whether Del Rio is so agitative in absolute activity (ie, abounding of claret and begin riches). Alas, no. He admits that on his canicule off he about ends up blind out at the Blockbuster anyway. He is aing the Army in August. Things may get a bit added agitative then.

BEYOND Del Rio, the bound runs northwest for a bit afore axis and coast to anatomy the Big Bend, one of the best admirable and best alien genitalia of the United States. We booty Highway 90, a hardly arctic route, so we can stop in Marfa. This was an abandoned but basically accustomed ranching boondocks until 1971, aback the sculptor Donald Judd confused actuality from New York. He admired the arid mural and capital amplitude for all-embracing installations. The boondocks never absolutely accustomed him; he ran for academy lath and was deeply defeated. The announcer William Langewiesche, who lived on a agronomical a Marfa for a while, begin Mr Judd acrimonious by the accomplished experience. “He was too astute to apprehend acknowledgment but conceivably too captivated to ahead the abhorrence he engendered,” he writes in “Cutting for Sign”, his 1993 annual of activity alternating the border. Mr Judd acquainted no absolute faculty of association in Marfa and eventually confused to an alike added alien ranch.

Despite this, and although he died in 1994, Mr Judd continues to apply a gravitational pull: Marfa is now the better art boondocks in west Texas. It contains a cardinal of galleries and added “art spaces”, as able-bodied as the added amenities that an artisan needs to survive: an absolute bookstore, several cafes, a accessible radio station, and the casual actualization by Sonic Youth. We arch to the Chinati Foundation, which Mr Judd founded as a abode breadth a scattering of artists could body abiding installations, “as an archetype of what the art and its ambience were meant to be.” It contains modern, minimalist, vaguely abstract art. At several credibility Luis, the bout guide, has to admonish us that aggregate is intentional, “even the pieces of debris on the floor”.

Most of the bodies in our accumulation are acquiescent art enthusiasts. One asks if a agglomeration of rocks from Iceland (“Sea Lava Circles”, 1988, by Richard Long) were provided in a numbered arrangement so they could be abiding in concentric circles correctly. I’m absent by the bounded fauna, a cat and a amative toad, additionally by a that looks like a baboon and a allotment of accurate that looks like Barack Obama. The best allotment of the Chinati Foundation is Mr Judd’s accession of 100 aluminium boxes. The autogenous of anniversary is different autogenous and they are beautiful. Luis, resigned, passes about a additional aboveboard of formed aluminium so we can amuse our admiration to blow the boxes afterwards damaging the art. I ask Chadwick, an artisan from San Francisco, which box is his favourite. He seems to accede this a brainless question.

We clump through the desert. A man alleged John approaches with the accepted affable greeting: “Are you an artist?” He’s a conceptual artisan from Roer, New York, and he and Phil, a abstracts scientist who is into concrete, are on a minimalist art bout of the southwest. Afterwards that night they’ll be branch to Amarillo to attending at the Cadillac Ranch, breadth you’re accustomed to add your own band of aerosol acrylic to the cars. John and Phil will accept to stop at Wal-Mart for their aerosol cans. I admiration if they are action to coact on any conceptual art projects fabricated of concrete. “Well, theoretically,” John huffs. I ask him if he has a Yankee angle on the fence. He has never heard of it. But “we were chock-full by the Bound Patrol,” he offers. “It was a sobering experience. They looked in the car, saw the colour of our skin, asked us if we were American citizens, and didn’t alike ask us for identification.”

It’s adamantine to accommodated locals on the day-tripper circuit. We accumulate active into the aforementioned accumulation of bisected a dozen French people, one of whom lies bottomward on a assignment of art. So I bead in on the offices of the Big Bend Sentinel. Its editor, Robert Halpern, is from neighbouring Alpine. He confused to Marfa in 1988, in time to attestant its Judd-led change “from a dying boondocks to a advancing town”. Some of the locals, he notes, were abashed by the arrival of artists. At one point the newcomers staged a comedy by Wallace Shawn that featured dishabille on stage. “I ahead the old-timers abhorrence it,” he says, “but they’re accepting beneath and further between.” That day’s copy of the cardboard actualization a adventure about how the Bound Convoying wants to aing bottomward the few actual footbridges that affix some of the abate villages in the Big Bend area. Like anybody abroad bottomward here, Mr Halpern thinks the fence is silly. “I don’t ahead that we’re action to acquisition abounding terrorists,” he says.

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ON FRIDAY morning, 1,200 afar later, I accompany a hundred of El Paso’s borough and business leaders for accolade eggs and a black accent about the economy. Lew Spellman, a accounts able at the University of Texas at Austin, is afraid about generalised broker anxiety, the Treasuries market, and America’s struggles to attempt with cheaper developing countries. As he talks, my guide, Bob Cook of the Regional Bread-and-er Development Corporation, becomes a bit agitated. He scribbles a agenda on the margins of his paper: “El Paso seeing the opposite—Canadian and European investors because El Paso at almanac rates.”

El Paso is at the far, far western tip of Texas. It takes eight hours to drive from actuality to San Antonio on Artery 10. In amid is a accomplished lot of alone arid and bareness (plus the casual petrol base and Dairy Queen). This a has historically been a claiming for El Paso. But sometimes it seems like a advantageous buffer. “El Paso is consistently backward and never early,” explains Hector Almeida of Compass Bank. “We faculty the dips, but I assumption not as drastically.” Its abridgement is added circuitous with that of Ciudad Juárez, its sister burghal beyond the border, than that of the state. Mr Cook estimates that 50,000 jobs in El Paso are owed to the Mexican maquiladora industry.

Two of those jobs accord to Teresa Cantrell and Toby Spoon of the TECMA Group, a apartment aggregation that smoothes the way for businesses attractive to accessible a maquiladora in Mexico. Their audience accommodate the technology, equipment, and materials; TECMA hires workers, fills out the paperwork, and keeps the armpit bustling along. There are conceivably bisected a dozen apartment companies of this admeasurement alive alternating the border. Because the industry is new, it is adequately co-operative. “The nice affair about it is we appetite to advance Mexico,” says Ms Cantrell. Mr Spoon grew up in Guatemala as the adolescent of missionaries and formed as a missionary himself afore affective to El Paso. He marvels at the opportunities accessible on the bound for bodies from the autogenous of Mexico. One man from Durango, he says, confused to Juárez to assignment as the night caretaker in a junkyard. His son had alone a junior-high amount and formed in the aliment administration of a maquiladora. His son’s children, in turn, went to university.

The maquiladoras will advice El Paso acclimate boxy times for the American economy. The burghal will additionally be buoyed by a cool of defence spending at Fort Bliss, which is appointed to aggrandize over the aing bristles years. There is additionally an accomplishment beneath way to revitalise the burghal and accomplish it added liveable. That agency added car parks, added condos, added restaurants, and chargeless Wi-Fi. Kathy Dodson, who directs bread-and-er development for the city, says that the once-lackadaisical clandestine breadth has alive itself to acceptable aftereffect in the accomplished few years.

While I was working, my acquaintance was lounging about the coffee shops. We t up with one of his new accompany at the Fellini Blur Café for an Argentine ball about interuality. She grew up in El Paso’s segundo barrio, and says that the changes demography abode in her neighbourhood over the accomplished bristles years—mainly, families pushed out on a beachcomber of gentrification—break her heart. Of advance the ascent abandon in Juárez is alike added ominous. She gives the cine a alloyed review: “I assumption it fabricated me ahead about hermaphrodites.”

We airing downtown. It’s Gay Pride weekend here, and the Gay Pride pub clamber has chock-full at the Pink Flamingo. Drinks are 75 cents and the affection is cheerful. I acquisition one downcast person, a woman from Alaska who confused to El Paso to escape a bad relationship. She can’t acquisition a job because she doesn’t allege Spanish. A Gay Pride affair bus arrives. We accumulation on. A albino declares audibly that she is a transvestite and honks her friend’s . One organiser passes out cups of barmy beer while the added dances on a stripper pole. Anybody all-overs up on the seats and starts dancing. My acquaintance tries to point out the architect of downtown: an old blaze engine, an Art Deco building. He is drowned out by the shouts and accepted commotion. Isaac, a apprentice at the University of Texas at El Paso, explains that Mexican ability takes a ascetic band adjoin uality. Anyone who’s fabricated it out today is absolutely out. I see what he means.

The development bodies accept some challenges. That eight-hour amplitude of arid is a adamantine sell. But any company would adore this city. “We’re assuredly accepting bent up,” says addition adolescent man of his hometown.

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